Epicure Market - Sunny Isles Beach

So with the Rascal House all but demolished, the National Deli Corporation took the failed Rascal House location and expanded their premier gourmet supermarket to it's second location in Sunny Isles Beach. How does the new location stack up to the original and more importantly, how does it compare to other gourmet supermarkets? With the advent of chains Whole Foods, Fresh market, and even local player, Gardener's Market, Can Epicure stand atop the crowd?

Epicure has a long fabled history in South Florida. Originally opening in 1945, the market has been a Miami Beach staple for high end prepared food and Jewish style appetizers. This includes, wine, cheese, deserts, and their own line of frozen foods. They are best known for their take out and legendary soups. Their Matzo Ball soup is still one of the best around. Their high end flair has catered to the rich and famous as well as the average Joe.

The new location is a beautiful site and has been completely renovated. It is nearly twice the size of the original Alton Road location. As you walk in you see the endless take out display counter, and aisles of gourmet stuff. First stop was the cold appetizers, where I was offered to sample anything in the case I desired. I tried the "World Famous" tuna which was pretty darn good but lacked a little something crunchy. Next was the chopped liver. Boy, that was good, in fact world class. A brief examination of the smoked fish and cream cheeses appeared to look top quality as well. Next was the hot case, where you can buy everything from baby back ribs to stuffed salmon. The case looked good enough for a picture in a food catalog. The seafood case contained Colossal Stone Crab Claws, and Jumbo Shrimps among several other seafood based salads. Their other fish looked to be all fresh and top end. I took a walk through their wine selection and found it to be overpriced and inadequate. The fresh fruit looked as if each piece of fruit and vegetable had been waxed and sealed for a portrait, they could not have a better presentation.

So the place is beautiful, it has high end delicious food, what is the problem? The pricing. This place has the same problem they did when they owned the Rascal House. Their prices are just not competitive and are plain over priced. When National Deli took over the Rascal house the first thing they did was jack up the prices. Next they downsized the portions. Finally they began cutting the "freebies" that were standard table fare. Why do I mention this? Because as good as Epicure is, most items are not worth the money they charge. With the exception of certain "Old School" Jewish Style items such as the soups, Borscht, and Kasha Vanashkas, I don't foresee myself shopping here very often. Whole Foods has lower prices, more sales and their stuff is almost if not just as good as Epicure. Fresh Market is right up there as well, I would put their meat department second to none and they have good sales too. The Gardener's market is my favorite option for eat-in and a home style feel. I would take any of the three over Epicure, hands down.

It saddens me to potentially see another old Miami institution like Epicure going the way of the Rascal House, with over priced items and small portions. Luckily in Epicure's favor they have some of the highest rent district near the new store, Aventura, Sunny Isles, and Bal Harbor, so they may well get the crowd they are targeting. However, in these woeful economic times, I don't foresee huge lines forming at Epicure's registers. Thumbs up for the quality and the selection. Thumbs down for pricing, portions, and pomp. Let's hope Epicure does not go the way of our former beloved Rascal House.

Grilling Perfect Ribs

South Florida's year round climate makes us one of the grilling capitals in the nation. Most of us grill, and why not? The weather is beautiful, the scintillating smell of the grill, and the taste of the food is alluring. Anyone can grill, that's why it's so popular. You don't have to be a chef, a gourmet, or know any French to grill. Slap a few burgers and hot dogs down and bingo, you got a barbecue. Now for those in the know, those who secretly have a cooking apron in the closet, those who secretly watch Emeril, there is only one type of meat to barbecue, the mac-daddy, and grand poobah of all meats - Baby Back Ribs.

This recipe and methodology will make you the king of the grill. There are a few simple concepts and ideas you need to learn before we start.

First of all, always purchase fresh ribs from a meat market or butcher. Do not buy frozen or fresh frozen. If your grandmother never taught you, let me: "Fresh is Best". Secondly, You must remove the membrane or "fell" from the underside of the ribs. I have never bought ribs where this is already removed. This is the reason why people overcook ribs. With this membrane removed, the ribs will never be tough. You can ask the butcher to remove the membrane at the time of purchase, but beware, most will have no idea what you are asking for. Third, never boil your ribs. Yes, you heard me right. NEVER. This urban legend should be left with the remains of the Dodo Bird. Finally, never cut the ribs into pieces until fully done cooking.

Now you have the fresh ribs, removed the membrane and are ready for the next step. Making and applying a dry rub. I don't like marinating my ribs in a liquid marinade. The king of the grill
uses a dry barbecue rub. Here are the ingredients for 2 cups:

1 1/4 cups brown sugar
1/4 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup Paprika
3 TB parsley
2 TB basil
2 TB oregano
2 TB thyme
2 TB dried onion
1 1/2 TB Lemon pepper
1 TB garlic powder
1 TS allspice
1 TS cinnamon

Whisk it all together and generously apply to the racks of ribs. I let mine sit overnight but even an hour is better than none. Anything left over you can jar and save.

Okay, you have prepped you ribs and are now ready to cook them. The best way to cook ribs is on a grill. If a grill is unavailable, you can cook them in the oven. I learned that trick when I ran out of gas one summer. I use a rib rack and cook them on their side to save room.

The first step is to heat the grill to about 300 degrees with indirect heat. This means you turn on the outside two burners and leave the middle off. On my Kenmore grill this is medium on the two outside burners. In the oven the normal bake cycle will do. If you use direct heat you will overcook the ribs or burn the bottom. While heating the grill you should put a small pan of hot water directly on the grill. This will allow moisture to circulate over the ribs during the slow cooking process and keep them moist. The idea here is slow cooking, but not too slow, and not too fast.

Take the ribs and place them in the rib rack or flat on the grate with indirect heat, and let 'em cook for about 1-1 1/4 hour for a real meaty rack. At this point you are ready to apply the barbecue sauce. I take the ribs out of the rack, and lay them down for the glazing. Apply the sauce of your choice with a paintbrush. I use a thick sauce, the thin watery ones just don't do it. Your almost done. About 20-30 minutes after the sauce is on will do it. Let the ribs rest for about 5 minutes before cutting them to allow the natural juices to flow evenly and be absorbed by the meat.

You are now the King of the Grill. Enjoy.