Billy's Stone Crabs

This little known restaurant on Hollywood Beach seems to be in direct competition to the World Famous Joe's. Does it compare? Does it have good claws? These were the questions I sought out to answer on a fine Sunday evening.

Bill Hershey, founder of Billy's, was married to the daughter of Joe's, which is the Stone Crab connection here. They seem to be the only two stone crab specialists in Miami-Dade and Broward. Billy claims to get his claws from the same supplier as Joe's and states they are exactly the same. Lucky for you, your columnist has eaten annually at Joe's since birth and is in a unique position to compare and contrast the two. The restaurant itself is a two story building on the Intercoastal with the dining area on the second floor. After the elevator deposits you at the Maître d' station, Michael Leffler greets you with a big smile and a New York feel. No reservations are accepted, arrive early if you don't like waiting, although it is nothing like the wait at Joe's.

I am pleased to report that Billy's has excellent claws, and even better they have an all you can eat option for those with a hearty appetite. They are available in Medium, Large, and Jumbo size claws. All of these sizes have an all you can eat option. What puzzled me was why anyone would bother with a large or jumbo all you can eat when the mediums were the lowest priced?

We ordered an appetizer of their Cole slaw and Crab Cakes to start. The Cole slaw was excellent, fresh, and mixed by our server table side. The crab cakes were more crab than cake and fantastic. I highly recommend them.

The moment of truth arrived and yours truly ordered the medium all you can eat claws. Also ordered were Shrimp Scampi, Blackened Grouper, and a side of hash browns. The claws were served properly chilled and cracked well, but the meat was not bruised. No cracker or mallet was needed to gain access to the succulent meat. The mustard sauce was also chilled and standard fare. I find the medium claws to be sweeter and tastier than the larger claws and always have. Stone Crabs are expensive enough, without jacking the price up for the larger versions. A standard order of medium Stone Crabs has 7 claws, large 5 claws, and jumbo 3 claws with price exponentially increasing as the size goes up and the number of claws goes down. I thought the claws were every bit as good as Joe's. The Shrimp Scampi and Grouper were also good, the grouper was a little on the small side. Personally, if I go to Joe's or Billy's, I am there for the Stone Crabs; however, at least they have decent alternatives for those who do not partake. The hash browns were good, and the service was exceptional. Our water glasses never went below half-full, and our server was very patient and doting to our table.

For desert, they tout a Key Lime Pie which we sampled and found it to be darned good. Unfortunately, their espresso machine was out of order, so we passed on the cappuccino. We liked everything we had and felt comfortable with the staff and ambiance. The second floor view was scintillating and calming.

This will bring us to the ever pending question. How does it compare to Joe's? Well, it really doesn't. Joe's is an institution that has been built for decades and deserves a review of it's own. The Stone Crabs, Cole Slaw, and service are on par with Joe's. The Hash browns and Key Lime pie are not. The rich excitement and anticipation of "going to Joe's" was not there, because it's not Joe's.

Billy's is a great alternative to Joe's for a Stone Crab night out. The claws are great, the service impeccable. I enjoyed my dinner at Billy's and I will definitely return. Those in West Palm and Broward may find this a closer alternative than Joe's to sample some first class Stone Crabs. Come on down to Billy's and enjoy your dinner. Just don't expect to meet Joe's. Billy's is located on A1A one block north of Hollywood Boulevard. A review on Joe's will be forthcoming in the next few weeks.

DINE OUT IN LAUDERDALE

Thanks to the great success of Miami Spice, Ft. Lauderdale will be offering a similar program aptly named "Dine Out" during October 1 - November 14, 2008. Although not as well known, or advertised as Miami Spice, there are some excellent restaurants on the list such as Cero's, and Jackson's Steak House. This dining program started last year, and was successful enough to bring it back for '08. They also note on the website that there is a special preview at selected restaurants beginning September 15, 2008, check the web site for particulars.

Three course dinners will be offered at $35 per person. A few interesting restrictions are notable: Most Dine Out Lauderdale menus are valid Sunday-Thursday, and not valid during the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, Oct. 30-Nov 3, 2008. American Express is an official sponsor; however, no word yet whether they will offer any cashback bonus as they did for Miami Spice. The official Dine Out website can be seen here.

Fun Time is Croissan'time

For those in the know, Croissan'time is a neat little French Bakery/Cafe tucked away in East Fort Lauderdale just North of Sunrise Boulevard on Federal Highway. This little hideaway has been in business since 1986, the proprietor being of actual French descent and trained in the old ways of the Pyrenees. This humble little storefront houses a cafe, a take-away deli, and of course, a bakery.

Let's start with the bakery. Croissan'time produces some of the finest french bread and rolls I have had outside of Europe. They have a tremendous demand and generally sell out by the late afternoon. I'm not sure how long I can rant and rave about their bread, but are you getting the idea that this place is the real deal? Lets take a look at the cakes and pastries, all produced on site. The traditional pastries are all here: Napoleons, Eclairs, Cream Puffs, Souffles, Lindsor tarts (Heart Shaped), Fruit Tartelettes, Chocolate Dipped Fruits, and Tiramisu along with some whose names I can't pronounce. They are all available in regular size, and they carry mini-sizes of all their creations. You can pick up the large pastries for $4.60 each or get six mini's for $9.00. I recommend getting the six mini's and trying several varieties.

The bakery is tied into the cafe' which produces specialty sandwiches, Quiches, Salads, Croquet-Monsieur, Pizza, and a hot dog encased in a pastry shell. My personal favorite is the Tuna on a Baguette. They give you the options of fresh brie, cornichon (small French pickles), lettuce, tomato, and onion. Dijon mustard, butter, and mayo are options as well. Their tuna paired with the cornichons is a striking combination that is very tasty. When put together with the brie and the hot baguette, the fusion of flavors rivals any sandwich I have ever had. Also available is Turkey, Roast Beef, French Ham, Pate', Prosciutto, Smoked Salmon, and Salami.

Their deli counter looks as if it was just off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. The first thing I noticed was the cheeses. They carry several varieties of Gruyere cheese including a champagne variety that is delicious. They have several other varieties of Brie and Gruyere available. In the display case is DiParma prosciutto, Serrano ham, Madrange cooked French ham, Saucisson sec, Merguez, Boudin noir, Mousses and pâtés, Foie gras (duck and goose liver),Smoked Salmon, and Caviar Beluga. This is all the real deal folks! As if the pastries and chocolates were not enough, they also have homemade ice cream and sorbet here.

For those who enjoy the finest in food, the French themselves are difficult to palate; however, their food is the world standard that all are set to, like 'em or not. This place is true to the French. Overpriced, a bit obnoxious, darn good food, one line for all services, and command of their market.

Take an afternoon ride down to Croissan'time for a sandwich and a pastry. Take a loaf of bread home and pretend for a few minutes that you are walking down the Champs-Élysées. They are closed Monday's and open 7:30am to 6:30pm Tuesday-Saturday. Sunday is 7:30am to 3:00pm. You can find them at 1201 N Federal Highway, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304.telephone: (954) 565-8555.