Billy's Stone Crabs

This little known restaurant on Hollywood Beach seems to be in direct competition to the World Famous Joe's. Does it compare? Does it have good claws? These were the questions I sought out to answer on a fine Sunday evening.

Bill Hershey, founder of Billy's, was married to the daughter of Joe's, which is the Stone Crab connection here. They seem to be the only two stone crab specialists in Miami-Dade and Broward. Billy claims to get his claws from the same supplier as Joe's and states they are exactly the same. Lucky for you, your columnist has eaten annually at Joe's since birth and is in a unique position to compare and contrast the two. The restaurant itself is a two story building on the Intercoastal with the dining area on the second floor. After the elevator deposits you at the Maître d' station, Michael Leffler greets you with a big smile and a New York feel. No reservations are accepted, arrive early if you don't like waiting, although it is nothing like the wait at Joe's.

I am pleased to report that Billy's has excellent claws, and even better they have an all you can eat option for those with a hearty appetite. They are available in Medium, Large, and Jumbo size claws. All of these sizes have an all you can eat option. What puzzled me was why anyone would bother with a large or jumbo all you can eat when the mediums were the lowest priced?

We ordered an appetizer of their Cole slaw and Crab Cakes to start. The Cole slaw was excellent, fresh, and mixed by our server table side. The crab cakes were more crab than cake and fantastic. I highly recommend them.

The moment of truth arrived and yours truly ordered the medium all you can eat claws. Also ordered were Shrimp Scampi, Blackened Grouper, and a side of hash browns. The claws were served properly chilled and cracked well, but the meat was not bruised. No cracker or mallet was needed to gain access to the succulent meat. The mustard sauce was also chilled and standard fare. I find the medium claws to be sweeter and tastier than the larger claws and always have. Stone Crabs are expensive enough, without jacking the price up for the larger versions. A standard order of medium Stone Crabs has 7 claws, large 5 claws, and jumbo 3 claws with price exponentially increasing as the size goes up and the number of claws goes down. I thought the claws were every bit as good as Joe's. The Shrimp Scampi and Grouper were also good, the grouper was a little on the small side. Personally, if I go to Joe's or Billy's, I am there for the Stone Crabs; however, at least they have decent alternatives for those who do not partake. The hash browns were good, and the service was exceptional. Our water glasses never went below half-full, and our server was very patient and doting to our table.

For desert, they tout a Key Lime Pie which we sampled and found it to be darned good. Unfortunately, their espresso machine was out of order, so we passed on the cappuccino. We liked everything we had and felt comfortable with the staff and ambiance. The second floor view was scintillating and calming.

This will bring us to the ever pending question. How does it compare to Joe's? Well, it really doesn't. Joe's is an institution that has been built for decades and deserves a review of it's own. The Stone Crabs, Cole Slaw, and service are on par with Joe's. The Hash browns and Key Lime pie are not. The rich excitement and anticipation of "going to Joe's" was not there, because it's not Joe's.

Billy's is a great alternative to Joe's for a Stone Crab night out. The claws are great, the service impeccable. I enjoyed my dinner at Billy's and I will definitely return. Those in West Palm and Broward may find this a closer alternative than Joe's to sample some first class Stone Crabs. Come on down to Billy's and enjoy your dinner. Just don't expect to meet Joe's. Billy's is located on A1A one block north of Hollywood Boulevard. A review on Joe's will be forthcoming in the next few weeks.

DeVito South Beach

The first thing I always seem to notice when arriving in South Beach is the parking, or lack thereof. I arrived early at DeVito's, luckily grabbing a meter, a block away rather than paying the $15 + tip SoBe standard valet charge. Upon arrival there are a few seating options, inside, outside, upstairs, and downstairs. The action is usually downstairs, while upstairs is a bit more sedate and refined.

DeVito's South Beach, touts itself as an "Italian Chop House" and is decorated in a contemporary twist on traditional Italian decor. It works very well and is a nurturing, inviting environment. Danny DeVito partners with David Manero, a local restaurateur to create this high profile, exciting restaurant set in the heart on South Beach on South Ocean Drive.

Luckily for our wallets, DeVito's is participating in the Miami Spice program. They started us with a hot loaf of bread curiously served in a brown paper bag, along with a gratis tray of antipasto.

On the menu for appetizers were: Caesar Wedge with white anchovy, cherry tomato, Crostini or Jumbo House Meatball with whipped ricotta. The meatball was the winner here. Served in an individual chrome sauce pan, it was the size of a grapefruit and could have easily served two. The presentation was definitely a plus. Topped with a tasty marinara sauce and a dollop of herbed ricotta, it was delicious and filling.

The main courses presented were: Pennoni, Zyr-vodka san Marzano sauce, or Wild Salmon, truffle honey mustard glaze, pomegranate, marinated fennel, or Organic Semi-boneless 10 oz Lemon Chicken Breast, pepperoncini Chile’s, and citrus dressing It was simply great. Given the choice, I would opt for the chicken. The main dishes come alone with no accompaniments. We tried a side of Horseradish Mash Potatoes and were disappointed. The potatoes were good but served cold.

The desert was the crowning jewel, offered were: Vanilla panna cotta with mix berry compote or Cannoli siciliani, ricotta impastata with chocolate chips, blood orange sorbetto. We opted for the Cannoli which was dreamy and could not have been better. It was paired with a lemon sorbet on a bed of pistachio nuts. I did not think the pistachio nuts was a good pairing for the sorbet, but I overlooked it since the cannoli was so good.

I really like DeVito's. The ambiance, decor, SoBe atmosphere, it's all there. What is also there are the SoBe prices. Of course if you go there on a Friday or Saturday night, you may very well run into some celebrities, or maybe even Danny DeVito himself. Treat yourself to a night at DeVito's, especially at Miami Spice prices. It's worth every penny.

Do Leprechan's Drink Beer?

There are quite a few Irish pubs in South Florida. All of them have great beer. Most do not do great food. Tucked away on North Andrews avenue in east Ft. Lauderdale is Maguires Hill 16. This dark, smoky, landmark is great place for lunch, happy hour or just to chill out and have a beer.

Every day there are several lunch specials. They change daily and are all reasonably priced from $6.99 to $12.99. They also have a complete menu with something for everyone. One great reason to eat at Maguires is their potato soup. For an up charge of .50 cents you can get a loaded bowl of some great potato soup.

The opening order was the standard fish and chips. This consisted of one large piece of golden fried cod and a healthy amount of steak fries. It was well done and very tasty. It rivaled any English Pub I have eaten at. They keep vinegar on the table for the fries and fish, but unfortunately, they never heard of brown sauce at Maguires. We also ordered a Hot Corned Beef sandwich which comes with a side of fries which was good. It was served on marble rye bread and served warm with extra hot and spicy mustard. Finally the Shepard's Pie was seasoned ground beef over a bed of mashed potatoes. The dish was served hot and the seasoning was just right. Most of the men items excel for pub fare; however, I would think twice before ordering the Teriyaki Chicken. Finally, the beer. They have an impressive selection of imports and drafts although I was a bit disappointed they had no hand pumped ales. They also have a full service liquor bar for those who wish to hit the hard stuff. Service is above average and the servers are very attentive to their customers.

Maguires opens early and closes late. They have live bands on the weekends and a free buffet for happy hour. Pay them a visit at 535 N. Andrews Avenue in Ft. Lauderdale for some good old fashioned publike fun. After you visit Maguires Hill 16, you will know if Leprechan's drink beer.

July 4th - Get up and grill

Well it is the birthday of our country once again. We will be 232 years old this year. Although I have been busy, I wanted to remind everyone to have a great fourth, and don't forget to fire up your grill. For those who forgot here is my world famous rib recipe:RIBS!

Where's the Beef?

For those who have not discovered the cornucopia of restaurants in the Downtown Hollywood area, I recommend a trip to explore the newly renovated area. There are several noteworthy restaurants; however, let's stick to the beef for today.

Beefeater's is located at 1902 Hollywood Boulevard in the heart of downtown. The ambiance is Argentinian, and Latin. The specialty of the house is the churrasco or skirt steak. I went for the executive lunch last week and was pleasantly surprised by their executive lunch special priced at $6.99. This includes a foot long plus churrasco, salad, and one side. You will not walk away hungry.

The service was very good and we were started with a piping hot basket of rolls and a glass of bottomless ice tea for starters. The salad that followed was basic, but tasty with it's bleu cheese dressing. It was time for the main attraction, the churrasco. Homemade chimichurri was placed on the table and the steak screams to be doused in the green confection. The sides were mashed potatoes (regular and sweet), rice and beans, baked potato or vegetables. The steak was ordered medium rare and served medium rare. The steak was tender, juicy, and cooked perfectly.

One may believe that Beefeater's lunch prices are too low for them to maintain their business. Before you think them into bankruptcy, last time I was there for dinner, they also serve free beer at the bar if there is a wait. The dinner prices are very reasonable, albeit not the bargain of the executive lunch special. You can be sure, the beef is right here at Beefeater's.

The Best Thai

It's been a while since I visited Panya Thai on 163rd Street and 6th Avenue in North Miami Beach. This hole in the wall, is right next door the original Krispy Kreme. Being a Thai fanatic, there are very few Thai places that can do it right. Panya Thai is one of them.

The place has been fixed up and redecorated sine my last visit and is, well, very Thai'ish. The service staff seem to live in the place as they always seem to be on duty. They are very friendly, and are light on the English, heavy on the Thai. The first thing I notice when I arrive is the number of presumably Thai locals eating here. This is always a good sign.

Everything here is made to order, and the soups are no exception. The Tom Yum Ka (chicken) or Tom Yum Goong (shrimp) are the winners. If you like coconut milk, order the Tom Yum Gai, One note here, the food here is generally on the hot side. Medium is hot. Hot is fire. I order mine mild, and add the supplied spice powder to taste.

For appetizers, the Chicken Larb Gai, is a fusion of fish sauce, red onion, lettuce, rice powder, scallions, and cilantro. It is scrumptious. The Jumping Shrimp are excellent and the Beef Tiger Tear is also a winner.

The staple of the Thai Restaurant are the curries. Panya offers: Red, Green, Panang, Massaman, and Secret Night. All can be had with chicken, beef, pork, or tofu. The Red Curry here is the one that others should strive to be. The Panang Curry has a slightly more peanut taste than the red, and the Secret Night has fried egg in it. All are served with white rice. Also a staple is the Pad Thai. It is served just right with the freshest ingredients. I usually get the chicken or shrimp. They are very generous with their portions and heavy on the chicken or shrimp in all their dishes.

Let me mention the lunch specials here. For $7.95 you can order one of sixteen dishes including any of the curries or Pad Thai. It comes with rice and a salad with that all too famous peanut dressing.

Having eaten Thai food in the South Pacific, and all across South Florida, I cannot recommend this restaurant enough. It is the best Thai Food I have eaten in South Florida and savor any visit there. Don't wait and don't keep eating sub par Thai Food. Go to Panya Thai.

The King of all Steaks

There is a very special tree on the corner of 441 and Stirling Road in Broward County. Next time you roll toward the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino, take a minute to look at it. It is the original "Council Oak" where previous generations of Seminole Tribe elders and tribal members met for community meetings. Hence, the flagship restaurant at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino is aptly named "Council Oak" after that legendary tree.

I first ate at the Council Oak a few years ago shortly after the casino opened. The reason? A 20 percent off coupon that came to me in the mail. Ever since that fateful night, I have been a fan of the "Oak".

Upon entering through the casino, you are in full view of the meats through the display window. The dark rich mahogany and leather seem to make the place look more traditional than it actually is. The Oak offers your typical steakhouse fare, salads, appetizers, fish, and of course, the steaks.

The appetizers were an iceberg salad wedge topped with crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, bacon, and a homemade bleu cheese dressing and a hot and cold combination dish containing jumbo lump crab meat and diced lobster tail. The wedge was nearly perfect. The lettuce was crisp, cold, and presented as if made for royalty. The toppings blended perfectly together and made a fused salad that is second to none. The other appetizer was chilled crab with hot lobster tail. Both were served in a radicchio shell. The crab was served with a mild cocktail sauce and the lobster with drawn butter. Both were very good but the wedge blew me away.

Here come the steaks. We ordered the 14oz Fillet and the Heavy Cut New York Strip. The Oak dry ages it's beef, a rarity in this day and age. For those not in the know, dry aging beef is a more costly option than wet aging beef. Dry aging requires a large inventory to rotate, special care and handling, and there is up to a one third loss of the meat during the process. Wet aging is done inside a vacuum sealed bag so there is no loss of weight, and aging happens rapidly and thus, cheaper to produce. Most steakhouses you eat at use the wet aging method.

The strip was ordered medium rare, and the fillet ordered medium, both came out right. The strip was tender, flavorful, and the natural scent of the meat was overwhelming. I found my mouth watering as I sliced into the center. This my friends, is a steak the way the almighty intended it to be eaten. The fillet was equally as good. The sides ordered were a baked potato and hash browns. The potato was good and the hash browns were well done and had a crispy exterior shell, just like it should be. I paired this with a Clos du Val Cabernet which was a match made in heaven. Additionally, as a nice touch , everyone is served Fiji bottled water throughout the meal at no additional cost.

Desert was a peanut butter bar with espresso ice cream on the side, and a scoop of Dulce de Leche ice cream. Both were yummy. I do wish they would reincarnate the dark chocolate oak tree filled with peanut butter ice cream they used to offer as their signature desert. Espresso Macchiato's were also good. Service was very good throughout the meal, but be careful of the server's recommendations, he is not on a budget.

With Blackjack, Pai-Gow Poker, and Let it Ride coming to the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino on June 22, 2008, I expect the Oak will be getting a large boost in popularity and reviews in the very near future. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Go to the Oak. Where dry aged beef has no match.

Is Capital Grille King of the Steaks?

Let's not beat around the bush here. Capital Grille, once the time honored grandpappy of the brown moo has slipped at least a notch.

It seems that since Darden Restaurants, Inc. acquired the stuffy chain in 2007, they have relinquished some level of quality control. For those who don't know, Darden is the proud owner of such fine dining establishments such as Red Lobster and the Olive Garden.

Service was excellent. Our server named Robert was a witty, likable character who performed his tasks to excellence.

Dinner opened with a Shrimp Cocktail, Lobster Bisque, and a Lump Crab Appetizer. The shrimps were perfectly cooked, but extremely small size crustaceans for a $15 appetizer. I was expecting jumbo or at least extra large for that price. The Bisque was very light on the lobster meat, heavy on the cream, but good and served at the proper temperature. The Lump Crab appetizer was the winner, served in a martini glass, chilled with cocktail sauce. Overall I ranked the appetizers as "good".

Next on the list were the salads. I was disappointed in my Capital Grille Chopped Salad. The presentation was poor and the dressing was just okay. Also tasted was the special salad of the night which was a lump crab meat salad with avocado. This was the winner of the salads. I remember the chopped salad having more visually stimulating greens and vegetables. Overall I ranked the salads as "Okay".

Finally, it was time to forget the appetizers and salads, this is the Capital Grille, where men come to eat steaks and leftovers are unheard of. Ordered were the 14 oz fillet, and a New York Strip. The fillet was ordered medium and came out medium well. The outside was charred and actually tasted burnt and was shell-like. The center of the cut was tender and flavorful as a $43 steak should be. The strip was cooked medium and was very good. The sides were lyonaise potatoes and creamed spinach. Both were very good. The potatoes in particular were the highlight of the night.

Desert was a creme brulee and cherry cobbler. Both were fantastic. The cappuccino's were well prepared and the rock candy swizzle stick adds a touch of class. No messing around with desert here

I'm afraid that Capital Grille has fallen a few notches on my list of fine steakhouses. Of the dozen or so times I have eaten there, the last two times have not been wholly satisfying. Not that the food is not good, it is tasty. But a top tier steak house with super-premium prices should have done a better job on the food itself. Their service remains a staple of excellence; however, for the overall experience I cannot give the Capital Grille a sterling recommendation. There are too many other premium steak houses in South Florida to spend the money here. Sorry Capital Grille, I expected better.

UPDATED 8/16/08 HERE